Today was our second day in Franz Joseph. The small town has been quiet and cozy, and super super rainy (which I guess is okay, since we're in a rainforest after all...). Franz Joseph's town feels like a small Colorado mountain town, but has its own claim to fame, a giant glacier in the middle of the rainforest. Franz is one of three places in the world where such a natural phenomenon occurs, the other 12 kilometers down the road here in NZ, Fox Glacier, and the other in Argentina. It sounds far-fetched, and we couldn't wait to see it for ourselves.
We booked a four hour glacier hike and upon arrival at the main center were outfitted with all the appropriate gear. Luckily, it was just cloudy this morning, and not raining, as the girls we met last night who had already made the hike warned us that we would be soaked to our underwear (which I was definitely dreading). We wore our own layers (no jeans allowed), and the company provided us with over trousers, boots, wool socks, hats, and mittens, and a coat. It was a lot of gear, most of which was smelly, uncomfortable, and wet. I ran into the problem of too big boots with my tiny feet...the children's boots were a bit too snug (and I didn't want blisters) and the adult's were too big. So I doubled up on the wool socks and stuck my feet into the squishy, puddle-filled boots, pulled on the ginormous pants, and chucked the jacket on top of my other four layers. I wasn't taking any chances. Lastly, they provided us with a stylish fanny pack contraption for our crampons (ice-picking shoe attachments). We took a bus out to the national park and set off.
The low clouds made visibility a bit rough, and the first 45 minutes of our hike was through rocks, streams, and finally winding up into the rainforest through waterfalls to get to the glacier. All the kiwis call hikes 'walks' so I was thinking, this should be a nice walk. Instead, in too-big boots, I was clunking through the forest, climbing slippery rocks with the waterfall streaming over them, while gripping the rope handles they had to put in the trees to help. I was already wet! After climbing out of the forest, and past the DANGER! zone (that is not recommended to pass unless with a guide), there it was, a giant sheet of towering blue ice jutting out of, yes, the rainforest!
The glacier is constantly moving, and a river roars right through it. The land is highly susceptible to rock slips, and ice avalanches, so it was pretty risky. We stopped to attach the crampons, and climbed onto the glacier. Daily, the guides have to meticulously plan the path for the groups to follow, moving the snow and slush around to create the safest hike possible. We were climbing ice stairs, sneaking thorough icy crevasses (kiwi spelling), and hiking atop difficult rocks. It was incredible! The higher we got, the colder it became, and finally the rain started. But because we were on a glacier, it felt like icy sleet, and I was ready to head down at that point. Franz Joseph Glacier was spectacular, and we only got a four hour taste...eight hour and even helicopter expeditions are offered. Very cool indeed (pun definitely intended).
After the long, grueling, and cold hike, we were all ready for a warm nap. Settling into the hostel to watch the Oscars, we slept off and on, and capped the night off with takeout pizza, movie snacks, and Back to the Future 2 on VHS!
Monday, February 23, 2009
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